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Quintin Lake's avatarThe Perimeter

The Pinnacles, Hooken Cliff, Branscombe, Devon. The Pinnacles, Hooken Cliff, Branscombe, Devon.

Above the pre-dawn landscape of Hooken undercliff the wind whistles over the cliffs forcing me to stagger like a drunk – seems appropriate for a place called Beer Head. Birds glide effortlessly overhead unaffected by the gusts. Peering into the hidden world of the undercliff with its forest canopy punctuated with pinnacles of rock and exotic bird calls I’m momentarily transported to the epic tone of the New Zealand landscape.

Beach hut, Hooken Cliffs, Devon. Beach hut, Hooken Cliffs, Devon.

This is the eastern most chalk on the English coast that I’d first encountered far to the east in Kent. I relish the last view of this iconic milky rock that has been my companion for the previous few months. The path through the undercliff leads to an appealingly maverick collection of beach huts perched on the steep slope.

Weston Ebb, Devon Weston Ebb, Devon

After Branscombe beach the landscape replaces white with…

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Quintin Lake's avatarThe Perimeter

Sunrise at Bar Ledges, Charmouth, Dorset. Sunrise at Bar Ledges, Charmouth, Dorset.

I’d been put up the previous night by Mac Mackenney, a friend from the Royal Geographical Society who’s company Max Adventure, provides logistical support to Everest expeditions, Ranulph Fiennes’ exploits and far flung vehicle based TV shows. Tales of adventure flowed and it was some reluctance that I accepted the need to turn in. The morning is still night as he waves me off at Charmouth from one of his well travelled 4x4s.

River Char at Charmouth beach, Dorset. River Char at Charmouth beach, Dorset.

At the deserted beach in Charmouth waves break in quick succession, threatening and insistent. A red smear above the horizon hints at the dawn about to break, Golden Cap is shrouded in mist.

Golden Cap from Canary Ledges, Dorset. Golden Cap from Canary Ledges, Dorset.

The cliffs here are tiers of landslip and the whole thing looks like it may slide into the sea at any moment. In parts the mud oozes down the…

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Quintin Lake's avatarThe Perimeter

Golden Cap and East Ebb from Burton Bradstock, Dorset. Golden Cap and East Ebb from Burton Bradstock, Dorset.

A full moon guides my departure from Abbotsbury at 5.30am, thatched cottages and the ruined Abbey silhouetted against the bright night sky. The village doesn’t have street lights which adds to the Medieval atmosphere. Last night I’d eaten tripe and mash in the pub, the kind of place where everybody looks over when you walk in before being warmly greeted.

Breakers I, Burton Beach, Dorset. Breakers I, Burton Beach, Dorset.

Burton Beach, Dorset. Burton Beach, Dorset.

I’m reunited with Chesil Beach before hitting a tarmac road which feels like walking on a travelator after crunching along the tiny pebbles for a few kilometres. Imperceptibly the mighty Chesil melts into sand and low cliffs. A big mouthed dog runs over and bites at my trekking pole aggressively.

Alternating strata of Bridport Sands and Inferior Oolite, East Cliff, West Bay, Dorset. Alternating strata of Bridport Sands and Inferior Oolite, East Cliff, West Bay, Dorset.

Burton Cliff from West Bay, Dorset. Burton Cliff from West Bay, Dorset.

Breakers II, Burton Beach, Dorset. Breakers II, Burton Beach, Dorset.

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Quintin Lake's avatarThe Perimeter

Chesil Beach I, Dorset. Chesil Beach I, Dorset.

Power Lines, Wyke Regis, Dorset. Power Lines, Wyke Regis, Dorset.

Chesil Beach II, Fishing Hut, Dorset. Chesil Beach II, Fishing Hut, Dorset.

Pill Box Interior, Fleet, Dorset. Pill Box Interior, Fleet, Dorset.

Chesil Beach III, Dorset. Chesil Beach III, Dorset.

Burnt Gorse, Tidmoor Point, Dorset. Burnt Gorse, Tidmoor Point, Dorset.

Type 25 Pill Box, Chickerell Hive Point, Dorset. Type 25 Pill Box, Chickerell Hive Point, Dorset.

Moonfleet Manor, Dorset Moonfleet Manor, Dorset

Black Bryony berries, Mixen Plantation, Dorset. Black Bryony berries, Mixen Plantation, Dorset.

New Barn Road from Linton Hill, Dorset. New Barn Road from Linton Hill, Dorset.

Reeds, Linton Hill, Dorset. Reeds, Linton Hill, Dorset.

Chesters Hill, Dorset. Chesters Hill, Dorset.

Footpath to Abbotsbury, Dorset. Footpath to Abbotsbury, Dorset.

Ancient field boundaries by Abbotsbury Swannery, Dorset. Ancient field boundaries by Abbotsbury Swannery, Dorset.

St Catherine’s Chapel from Linton Hill, Abbotsbury, Dorset. St Catherine’s Chapel from Linton Hill, Abbotsbury, Dorset.

Last light, St Catherine’s Chapel, Abbotsbury, Dorset. Last light, St Catherine’s Chapel, Abbotsbury, Dorset.

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Quintin Lake's avatarThe Perimeter

Frigate HMS Monmouth passes Portland Harbour Breakwater, Dorset. Frigate HMS Monmouth passes Portland Harbour Breakwater, Dorset.

Working boats in Weymouth contrast charmingly with the elegant Georgian architecture. Riverboats Organic Farms are delivering veg boxes from their branded van.

Birdwatcher & flock of Dark-bellied Brent Geese, Chisel Beach, Dorset. Birdwatcher & flock of Dark-bellied Brent Geese, Chesil Beach, Dorset.

“You a birder?” asks a local man by the shore
“No” I reply
“We’ve had some owls just down there”
“Supertankers come in here to have their bottoms scanned and fuel changed to meet EU regulations.”
“See that ship over there, the Sir Tristram, it was a landing ship from the Falklands war. It’s a training ship now. Every now and again they come with a chinook and thunder flashes and all sorts – impressive sight”
I thank the man and head on down the disused rail line where an elderly lady hands me a ‘Living Library’ pamphlet with a smile. It takes me a moment to realise that…

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Quintin Lake's avatarThe Perimeter

Wareham Quay, Dorset. Wareham Quay, Dorset.

Wareham has many fine historical buildings and a rare architectural unity that I’d last seen in Faversham. I’d like to linger but it’s still dark when I start. My admiring glances up and down the street are mistaken for bewilderment and a friendly local asks if I’m lost and tells me where I can buy tea at this early hour. There is just time for some tripod work by the quay before heavy rain encourages me to continue.

Slepe Copse I, Purbeck, Dorset. Slepe Copse I, Purbeck, Dorset.

Entering woodland the rain stops for a time but large drops continue to fall from the leaves into the peaty black pools below sending inky circles rippling outwards.

Slepe Copse II, Purbeck, Dorset. Slepe Copse II, Purbeck, Dorset.

Hartland Moor, Purbeck, Dorset. Hartland Moor, Purbeck, Dorset.

Undulating Middlebere Heath radiates saturated winter colours: golden grasses and deep red bracken very like the Southern Uplands in Scotland. I’m enjoying the hills and the…

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Quintin Lake's avatarThe Perimeter

Harry Ramsden’s, Bournemouth, Dorset. Harry Ramsden’s, Bournemouth, Dorset.

I can just about make out Old Harry Rocks this morning – the dramatic chalk stacks near Swanage that are geologically connected to the Needles on the Isle of Wight. The rocks mark the start of the Jurassic Coast and a much more rugged landscape heading West – I can’t wait!

But now in Bournemouth beach huts are arranged by hue like paint swatches. A tractor passes to and fro methodically scraping the sand flat. Branksome beach cafe brings back happy memories of walking through the pines with my parents many years before.

Bournemouth Pier, Dorset. Bournemouth Pier, Dorset.

Peering through the window of an Sandbanks Estate Agent reveals that most properties here are in the £1-7 Million price range. Surprised at the lack of architectural quality of these expensive houses, their main selling point seems to be bigness. Walking through the area is an underwhelming experience of high…

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Quintin Lake's avatarThe Perimeter

Fog at Highcliffe, Dorset. Fog at Highcliffe, Dorset.

Thick mist amongst the trees in Chewton Bunny, a chine that marks border of Dorset an Devon and an old Smuggling route. Finger sign proclaims “To the Sea”.

Fog near Chewton Bunny, Dorset. Fog near Chewton Bunny, Dorset.

At the waterfront a CCTV camera rotates high on a post in the fog.

Foggy beach at Steamer Point Nature Reserve. Foggy beach at Steamer Point Nature Reserve.

Sea fog at Friars Cliff, Dorset. Sea fog at Friars Cliff, Dorset.

A man strikes up a conversation “Normally you can see Old Harry Rocks and the Polar Bear in the cliffs of the Isle of Wight, but it’s too misty today” I nod enthusiastically trying to imagine these wonders from the tracing paper vista before us.

Foggy Groynes at Mudeford, Dorset. Foggy Groynes at Mudeford, Dorset.

Dewy web, Highcliffe, Dorset. Dewy web, Highcliffe, Dorset.

Two women wearing gilets in plum and navy blue each carry little plastic bags of dog shit, the creators of which ignore the commands shouted urgently in their direction.

Chewton Bunny, the valley marking the Hampshire & Dorset border, Dorset. Chewton Bunny, the…

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